Crochet Bunny Amigurumi Pattern - A Soft Chenille Plush You

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Crochet Bunny Amigurumi Pattern - A Soft Chenille Plush You

★★★★★ 4.8 · 22

Wren Halloway03.08.2026JUMP TO TUTORIAL

There is a particular kind of quiet satisfaction in watching a ball of chenille yarn turn into something with a face. This crochet bunny amigurumi pattern is one I keep coming back to whenever I need a project that is forgiving enough for a beginner but still satisfying for someone who has been at this hook a long time, and I promise the floppy ears are easier than they look. Grab your 4.0 mm hook, put the kettle on, and let us build this bunny one round at a time.

Gathering Your Materials

Chenille yarn is doing all the visual heavy lifting on this project, and it is worth the small splurge if your budget allows it — it gives the finished bunny that plush, almost velvety texture you cannot get from a standard acrylic worsted weight. If chenille is not in your stash or your budget, a smooth worsted weight cotton-acrylic blend will still work fine, you will just lose a bit of that fuzzy softness.

• Plush chenille yarn in cream or ivory, roughly 100–120g depending on your tension
• Small amount of pink yarn or embroidery floss for the nose
• 4.0 mm hook
• 12 mm safety eyes, a pair
• Polyester stuffing, one small bag
• Tapestry needle, scissors, and a stitch marker

One safety note before you even pick up the hook: if this bunny is headed for a child under three, skip the safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes instead. Safety eyes are wonderfully secure once locked in, but they are still a small hard part, and I would rather you sew a face than worry.

Starting the Round Head

Every amigurumi head starts life as a slightly wobbly little dome, and that is completely normal. Begin with a magic ring (MR), work 7 SC into it, then increase every round the way the pattern shows until you reach 35 stitches by round 9. If you have never worked a magic ring before, it is simply a way to start crocheting in the round with a closeable centre — no big knot, no gap.

Rounds at a glance

• R1: 7 SC in MR (7)
• R2: INC in each st (14)
• R3: (1 SC, INC) x7 (21)
• R4: (2 SC, INC) x7 (28)
• R5: (3 SC, INC) x7 (35)
• R6–9: SC in each st (35)

Keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round — I skip this step maybe once a year out of overconfidence, and every single time I lose count somewhere around round 5. The head should sit round and even by round 9, not lopsided or pointed at the top.

Face Placement, Stuffing, and Closing

This is the moment your bunny stops being a beige dome and starts having a personality, so take your time here. Continue SC in each stitch through round 13, then place your 12 mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 7 stitches apart, before doing anything else. Always insert eyes before you stuff — it is nearly impossible to gauge spacing correctly once the head is firm.

A face that looks slightly off-centre almost always comes down to eye placement, not stitch counts — trust your eyes over the numbers if something looks wrong in the mirror test.

From there: R10–13 SC around, R14 decreases to 28, R15 decreases further to 18, then slip stitch and fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly but gradually as you close the gap, adding small amounts rather than one big handful, so you do not distort the round shape. Embroider the pink nose between rounds 10 and 11, and add a small mouth from rounds 11 to 12 with a few simple straight stitches.

Making the Two Legs

Legs are quick, almost meditative work compared to the head, but the two legs are not identical in how they finish, and that trips people up more than you would think. Both start the same way — MR, 6 SC, increase to 12, then SC even through round 6 — but the finishing differs.

1. First leg: slip stitch and fasten off
2. Second leg: chain 2 at the end of round 6, and do not cut the yarn

That chain-2 on the second leg is your bridge for joining, so resist the urge to fasten it off out of habit — I have absolutely done this on autopilot while half-watching a show, and had to frog back four rounds. Stuff both legs lightly before you move on to joining; a firmly packed leg is harder to bend into a natural sitting pose later.

Joining the Legs into the Body

This step is the closest thing to origami you will do in this entire pattern, and it looks more confusing on paper than it actually is once the pieces are in your hands. With the toes facing forward, join the second leg to the first with 1 SC, then work 11 SC around the first leg, 2 SC into the chain-2 bridge, 12 SC around the second leg, and 2 SC into the other side of the bridge, giving you 28 stitches for round 7.

• Place your stitch marker right at the start of round 7 before you go any further
• Check the centre gap where the bridge sits — it should look neat, not gaping
• Stuff the legs lightly as you go, not after the fact

Continue R8 with (13 SC, INC) x2 to reach 30, then SC even through rounds 9–12. The lower body should now look like a sturdy little pair of shorts standing on its own, ready to become a torso.

Shaping the Torso

Watching the lower body narrow into a proper torso is one of my favourite parts of this whole build — it is the point where the project stops looking like a crochet exercise and starts looking like a bunny. Work R13 with (13 SC, DEC) x2 down to 28, then SC even at R14, followed by R15 decreasing with (5 SC, DEC) x4 to 24 stitches. Stuff the body now, firmly but not rock-hard — you want enough give that the fabric still has a soft feel under your fingers.

Continue SC even through rounds 16–17, then finish with R18: (2 SC, DEC) x6 to bring you to 18 stitches. Stuff a little more, slip stitch, and fasten off, leaving a generously long tail for sewing the head on later — trust me, a short tail here means threading a new one mid-assembly, which is never fun.

Shape the tummy gently with your hands as you stuff rather than after you close it up; chenille yarn is forgiving and will hold whatever curve you coax into it.

Crocheting the Arms and Floppy Ears

Arms are the fastest piece in this whole pattern — 8 SC into a magic ring, then SC even for five more rounds, slip stitch, fasten off, leaving a long tail, and stuff lightly so they stay soft and bendable rather than stiff little sausages.

Ears (make 2)

• R1: 6 SC in MR (6)
• R2: 6 INC in each st (12)
• R3: (1 SC, INC) x6 (18)
• R4–5: SC in each st (18)
• R6: (2 SC, INC) x6 (24)
• R7–15: SC in each st (24)

Do not overstuff the ears — in fact, do not stuff them at all beyond what naturally sits inside them. Fold the open edge flat before sewing, which is what gives this bunny its signature floppy, drooping ear shape rather than a stiff upright one. This is genuinely the easiest part of the whole pattern, so enjoy the break.

Sewing It All Together

Assembly is where a pile of separate, slightly odd-looking pieces suddenly becomes an actual bunny, and it is worth pinning everything in place before you commit a single stitch of thread.

1. Sew the head securely to the top of the body, around rounds 15–16
2. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, at the same rounds
3. Sew the ears to the top sides of the head, evenly spaced
4. Touch up the pink nose and tiny smile if needed
5. Weave in all loose ends and smooth the shape by hand
6. Optional: add a small round tail to the lower back centre

Check the symmetry from the front before you sew anything permanently — I always catch at least one ear sitting slightly higher than the other at this stage, and it is far easier to fix now than after the yarn is knotted off. Massage the stuffing gently through the fabric to even out any lumps, and you have a finished bunny approximately 18–22 cm tall.

What This Bunny Looks Like on My Actual Craft Table

The step-by-step cards above show the pattern cleanly, but a real workspace is never quite that tidy, so here is what this bunny looked like coming together on my own table, stuffing fluff and all. I think it helps to see the mid-assembly mess before the pretty finished shot, because that is genuinely what this process looks like for me too, even after 27 years of doing this.

That is the finished bunny already sitting up in my hand while the yarn and tools are still out, which is how I always check a piece over one more time before it officially goes into photos. The cotton-look cones you see behind it are actually the chenille cakes, wound loose so they feed smoothly.

This is round 9 or so on the head, right before the eyes go in, and I always pause here to squeeze the round gently between my palms to check it is even on all sides. My stitch marker had already slipped out once by this point, which is exactly the mistake I warn you about above.

Threading the nose in with a scrap of pink embroidery floss, right after the safety eyes were locked into place. I like to hold the head at arm's length between stitches to see how the expression is reading, since a nose sewn a half-stitch off can genuinely change the whole personality.

This is a single leg mid-round, before its partner exists yet, and you can see how tall and narrow it looks on its own before it gets folded into the body shape. I always crochet both legs back to back rather than one at a time, so my tension stays consistent between them.

That pink strand crossing the legs is not part of the bunny at all, just yarn I had pulled out to test against the cream for a possible sweater later, and it ended up in the shot. The finished bunny sitting in the background there was my test piece from the week before, kept as a size reference.

Pushing stuffing into the torso by hand, a little at a time, right at the stage where the body starts holding its own shape without support. I always work near a window for this part so I can actually see if the surface looks lumpy under natural light rather than lamp light.

Both arms and both ears laid out together so I could compare lengths before sewing anything, since mismatched limb length is the single most common flaw I catch in my own amigurumi. The little wooden yarn caddy in the corner holds my odds-and-ends colours for exactly this kind of small-piece project.

Attaching an ear to the head in the final stretch of assembly, holding it at the angle I want before pinning it permanently. This is usually the point where Mochi decides the finished pieces on the table are more interesting than the yarn cakes, so I keep a close eye on loose parts at this stage.

Conclusion

There is something quietly rewarding about laying all seven pieces out on the table before assembly and realizing they already look like a bunny before a single stitch of sewing has happened. Give yourself permission to go slowly through the joining and shaping rounds especially, since those are the two places where a little patience pays off the most in the finished shape.

DIY-Tutorial Pin Print

Crochet Bunny Amigurumi Pattern - A Soft Chenille Plush You

★★★★★ 4.8 · 22 ratings

Make this soft chenille crochet bunny amigurumi pattern step by step, with exact stitch counts, safety eye tips, and honest advice from years behind the hook.

Amigurumicrochet bunny amigurumi pattern

PREP TIME15 min

Work Time240 min

TOTAL TIME255 min

Yield1 crochet bunny

DifficultyEasy

Costapprox. $10

Materials

• Materials
• Plush chenille yarn in cream or ivory, approx. 100-120g
• Small amount of pink yarn or embroidery floss
• 4.0 mm crochet hook
• 12 mm safety eyes, one pair
• Polyester stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker

Steps

1

Start the round head

Work 7 SC into a magic ring, then increase every round following (1 SC, INC) patterns until you reach 35 stitches by round 9, keeping a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

2

Place the face and close the head

Insert 12 mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, roughly 7 stitches apart, then decrease from round 14 through round 15 down to 18 stitches while stuffing firmly, fasten off leaving a long tail, and embroider the nose and mouth.

3

Make the two legs

Crochet both legs identically from a magic ring up to 12 stitches through round 6, but fasten off the first leg while chaining 2 and leaving the yarn uncut on the second leg for joining.

4

Join the legs into the lower body

With toes facing forward, join the legs using the chain-2 bridge to reach 28 stitches at round 7, stuff lightly, then increase to 30 stitches at round 8 and work even through round 12.

5

Shape the torso

Decrease gradually from round 13 through round 18 down to 18 stitches, stuffing firmly but not hard as you go, then fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the head on later.

6

Crochet the arms and ears

Make two arms with 8 SC increased and worked even for six rounds, lightly stuffed, and two ears increased to 24 stitches by round 6 then worked even through round 15, folded flat at the open edge.

7

Assemble and finish the bunny

Sew the head to the top of the body, the arms to the sides at rounds 15-16, and the ears to the top of the head, then weave in all ends, touch up the face, and add an optional small tail to the lower back.

Hi! I'm Wren

Hi, I'm Wren — welcome to my cozy corner of the internet! I'm Wren Halloway: crocheter, amigurumi enthusiast, recovering perfectionist, and the…

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