No - Sew Mini Bunny Keychain Amigurumi - A Beginner -

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No - Sew Mini Bunny Keychain Amigurumi - A Beginner -

★★★★★ 4.7 · 66

Wren Halloway02.08.2026JUMP TO TUTORIAL

I made my first version of this little guy on a rainy Tuesday when Mochi had claimed my entire yarn basket as a bed, and I only had one hank of white plush yarn free. What came out was this tiny, no-sew bunny keychain amigurumi, and I have been making them nonstop ever since. The whole appeal here is that there is zero sewing — the ears, the feet, even the face details all happen right on the piece as you go, which means fewer steps where beginners usually get discouraged.

Gather Your Materials First

Before you pick up your hook, lay everything out — I learned this the hard way after digging through my stash mid-round more times than I care to admit. For this bunny you want a plush or chenille yarn in white, which gives that soft, huggable texture you see in the finished piece sitting on my little wood coaster.

• Yarn: plush white yarn plus a small amount of pink embroidery thread
• Eyes: 6-8mm black safety eyes or black beads
• Hook: 3.0-4.0mm, whatever feels snug with your yarn
• Extras: fiberfill stuffing, a keychain chain, and a tapestry needle

The finished bunny lands at about 5-6cm tall without the chain, so this is a fast, satisfying make — perfect for using up little bits of leftover plush yarn.

Starting the Body with a Magic Ring

Everything starts with a magic ring (MR), which just means a loop you can cinch closed after your first round so there is no hole in the center. Round 1 is 6 sc in MR = 6, and round 2 is an inc x 6 = 12, doubling your stitch count evenly around.

Pull that ring tight before you keep going — a loose center is one of the most common places stuffing peeks through later. I always drop a stitch marker into the first stitch of round 1 the moment I make it, because losing track of your round start on a piece this small happens fast, and continuous rounds (no joining, no turning) mean there is nothing to remind you where you began.

Keep your stitches snug rather than loose. You want a fabric dense enough that fiberfill will not show through the gaps once you stuff it later.

Building Height and Shaping the Cup

Round 3 is (sc, inc) x 6 = 18, and round 4 is simply sc around = 18. Somewhere in here your flat circle should start curling into a soft cup shape — if it is still lying flat like a coaster, your increases were probably worked a little loose.

Checkpoint

Stitch count after round 4 should be 18. This is worth counting out loud, I promise — catching an error now saves you from frogging (that is crochet-speak for ripping out your work) three rounds from now when the shape suddenly looks wrong.

Turn your work so the right side faces out, and keep working in continuous rounds. You will notice the top edge and the back forming distinct textures from this point forward, which is exactly what you want.

Adding the Tiny Bobble Feet

This is where the no-sew magic really starts to show. Instead of crocheting feet separately and stitching them on later, you build them directly into the round using a BO foot, which is just a 3-dc bobble worked into one stitch (it still only counts as 1 stitch in your total).

Round 5: sc 5, BO foot, sc 7, BO foot, sc 4 = 18. Round 6: sc around = 18. Keep both feet on the front side of the body, spaced the way you see in my stitch diagram, and pull each bobble snug right after you finish it so it stays rounded instead of flattening out.

A bobble that looks a little lopsided right after you make it will usually round out once you have stuffed the body — do not panic and rip it out on the spot.

Shaping the Arms and Placing the Eyes

The arms use the same trick as the feet — a BO arm, again a 3-dc bobble counted as 1 stitch. Round 7: sc 4, BO arm, sc 7, BO arm, sc 5 = 18. Round 8: sc around = 18.

Now for the face. Insert your 6-8mm safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, spaced about 4 stitches apart, right where the diagram shows. I always hold the washer backing loosely against the inside of the piece and check the face from the front before snapping it shut for good — safety eyes are permanent once backed, and there is no graceful way to undo that.

A note if this bunny is headed to a small child: safety eyes are secure but still a choking hazard for babies and toddlers. For anyone under three, embroider the eyes with black thread instead.

Stuffing and Narrowing the Top

Add your fiberfill now, a little at a time as you go rather than cramming it all in at once. Round 9: (sc 4, dec) x 3 = 15. Round 10: (sc 3, dec) x 3 = 12. Each dec (decrease) pulls two stitches into one, gently narrowing the opening.

• Do not overstuff — the top needs to stay soft enough to flatten in the next step
• Do keep stuffing evenly distributed so the body does not lean
• Check that no white fluff is visible through the stitches before moving on

I overstuffed my very first bunny and ended up with a body so firm the top would not flatten for the ears at all — I had to pull stuffing back out with a chopstick, which is a fiddly, patience-testing job I would rather you skip entirely.

Crocheting the Ears Straight from the Top

This is the step that makes this pattern truly no-sew, and it genuinely surprised me the first time I tried it. Flatten the top opening so it forms a long oval edge, then work the ears right off that edge.

1. Ear 1: sl st into the top edge, ch 5, sc 4 back down the chain, sl st into the next top stitch
2. Skip 2 stitches along the top edge
3. Ear 2: repeat the same sequence
4. Close the remaining top edge with 4 sc worked through both layers

Keep both ears even and slightly rounded rather than pointy — if one comes out longer, just add or skip a stitch on the second one to match. There is no seam to hide here, which means there is also no seam to fix if something looks a little wonky. That is the whole beauty of this technique.

Finishing the Face and Attaching the Chain

Last stretch. Thread your tapestry needle with the pink embroidery thread and stitch a small X for the nose centered between the eyes — two or three passes gives it enough dimension to actually read as a nose rather than a smudge.

Attach your keychain loop at the top center of the head, weaving the tail through a few stitches so it will not tug loose the first time it is clipped to a bag. Trim your remaining yarn tails close and give the whole bunny a gentle fluff with your fingers to bring the plush texture back to life.

Final checklist

• Eyes secure, no wiggle
• Nose centered between the eyes
• Chain firmly attached
• Feet facing front

This little bunny is spot clean only, so keep it away from the washing machine — a soft brush and a damp cloth is all it ever needs.

What This Bunny Actually Looks Like on My Kitchen Table

Step photos are great for following the pattern, but they never quite show the mess, the false starts, or the little decisions I make along the way. So here is a real batch, shot on my actual work table with my actual coffee going cold beside it. I wanted you to see the plush yarn scraps, the stitch markers I never seem to have enough of, and the moment where the bunny finally starts looking like a bunny instead of a lumpy tube.

That is my go-to pink-handled hook, which I reach for on almost every amigurumi project because the rubber grip saves my hands on long sessions. You can see how much plush yarn this little project actually eats through — barely a dent in that ball.

This is the oval base flattened out for the ears, shot from directly above so you can see how the stitches sit once the top is pressed flat. I always work this part slower than the rest, because a rushed row here shows on the face side later.

Placing the safety eyes before I commit to backing them, holding the washer loose against the inside just to double-check the spacing looks right from the front. I have redone this step more times than I will admit when the eyes ended up crossed.

This angle shows how small the whole piece really is next to my hand — smaller than I think most people expect from the finished photos. It is part of why these make such good last-minute gifts; you can finish one in an evening.

A close crop on attaching the ear mid-stitch, so you can actually see the chain and slip stitch forming rather than just imagining it from a diagram. My hook tension gets a little tighter on this step without me meaning it to, so I consciously loosen my grip here.

This is the moment the face really comes alive, right after the nose goes in. I always pause here and just look at it for a second before moving on, because it is genuinely one of my favorite parts of making these.

Attaching the keychain hardware from an angle that shows how it threads through the top stitches, which is easy to fumble if you are holding the piece one-handed like I usually am. I weave the tail through at least four stitches so it never works loose in a bag.

The finished bunny, held up and finally clipped onto its ring, right before it goes into my gift bag pile for the year. Every single one comes out just slightly different, and honestly that is my favorite part of making these by hand.

DIY-Tutorial Pin Print

No - Sew Mini Bunny Keychain Amigurumi - A Beginner -

★★★★★ 4.7 · 66 ratings

Learn to make an adorable no-sew bunny keychain amigurumi with this beginner-friendly, step-by-step crochet tutorial using bobble stitch feet and ears.

Amigurumi Keychainno sew bunny keychain amigurumi

PREP TIME10 min

Work Time90 min

TOTAL TIME100 min

Yield1 bunny keychain

DifficultyEasy

Costapprox. $6

Materials

• Materials
• Plush white yarn (small amount)
• Pink embroidery thread (small amount)
• 6-8mm black safety eyes or black beads
• 3.0-4.0mm crochet hook
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Keychain chain
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker

Steps

1

Gather your materials

Set out plush white yarn, pink embroidery thread, 6-8mm safety eyes, your 3.0-4.0mm hook, fiberfill, a keychain chain, and a tapestry needle before you start. The finished bunny measures about 5-6cm tall without the chain.

2

Start the body with a magic ring

Make a magic ring and work round 1: 6 sc in MR = 6. Round 2: inc x 6 = 12, keeping stitches snug and using a stitch marker to track your round.

3

Grow the body into a cup shape

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 = 18. Round 4: sc around = 18, letting the piece begin curving into a soft cup.

4

Add the bobble feet

Round 5: sc 5, BO foot (3-dc bobble in one stitch), sc 7, BO foot, sc 4 = 18. Round 6: sc around = 18, pulling each bobble snug so it stays rounded.

5

Add the arms and place the eyes

Round 7: sc 4, BO arm, sc 7, BO arm, sc 5 = 18. Round 8: sc around = 18. Insert 6-8mm safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, about 4 stitches apart, checking the face before backing them.

6

Stuff and narrow the top

Add stuffing lightly as you work round 9: (sc 4, dec) x 3 = 15, then round 10: (sc 3, dec) x 3 = 12. Avoid overstuffing so the top stays soft enough to flatten.

7

Crochet the ears from the top edge

Flatten the top opening. For ear 1: sl st in top edge, ch 5, sc 4 back down the chain, sl st in next stitch. Skip 2 stitches, repeat for ear 2, then close the remaining edge with 4 sc through both layers.

8

Finish the face and attach the chain

Embroider a small pink X nose centered between the eyes, then attach the keychain loop at the top center. Trim yarn tails and fluff the plush yarn to finish.

Hi! I'm Wren

Hi, I'm Wren — welcome to my cozy corner of the internet! I'm Wren Halloway: crocheter, amigurumi enthusiast, recovering perfectionist, and the…

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This little bunny keychain has become one of my favorite quick makes for exactly the reason I hoped it would be — no sewing needle chasing you at the end, just a hook, some plush yarn, and a finished piece in one sitting. Make one, make a dozen for stocking stuffers, and do not worry if your first ear is a little crooked. That is exactly how mine looked too.

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Happy stitching,

Wren